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Open Mic on Central Asia
27.02.26 • Vladislav Sludskiy • Curator at TOVA foundation
On Space and Places
The number of similarities and differences between Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan is so vast it creates certain dichotomies between friendship and competition, private and public, sedentary and nomadic, secular and religious. The first major milestone for the region is the domestication of horses in 3700-3100 BCE by Botai culture which acted as a significant stimulus to movement and curiosity. The burial sites consisted of hundreds of horses at times so that the riders could move around fast and in large quantities spreading goods, skills, encounters, recipes and, hopefully, stories. While still speculative, it is nice to think of Central Asia as one of the first cultural hubs, a prehistoric airport where space shrinks and stretches. Rumor has it that the myth of Centaurus is likely linked to the same horseriders so skilful to the point that they are almost mounted to their animals. This anticipates the bronze age during which the tribes were migrating actively from South to the North and back between 2000 - 900 BCE. An artist Said Atabekov told me once in Shymkent that Altai is a turkic word and it means ‘Alty Ai’ or six moons of traveling because this is how long it takes to move from one part of the region to another. Baikal is ‘bai kul’ or ‘rich lake’. Kazakh ornament koshkar muiz or ram’s horn is connected with Yakutian visual vocabulary for instance. And so on and so forth. A friend of a friend told me that In the 1990s when the first Japanese ambassador arrived he asked the driver to stop the car on the way from the airport to look at the horizon line for some minutes trying to comprehend all the empty space of the steppe. Emptiness and vastness as well as overcoming both is quite important.
Then there was the Arabic Renaissance with its rise of mathematics, architecture, astrology, sciences and arts in general, reconfiguring and shaking regional power dynamics yet again. Though being more present in Uzbekistan with cities like Bukhara, Samarkand or Khorezm (Khiva) Islamic Golden Age also spread to Otrar, Taraz, Yasi (Turkestan) challenging the perception of purely nomadic paradigm being the only one consistent throughout the centuries in Kazakhstan. Much like today cities are known for their thinkers and Otrar is particularly interesting because of al-Farabi - a praised philosopher, translator of Plato, author of كتاب آراء أهل المدينة الفاضلة or Book on the Opinions of the Residents of the Virtuous City which makes him somewhat an urbanist in the mid 900’s. In Khorezm region a mathematician al-Khwarizmi is known for popularizing zero in his equations through which he changed the universe of complex calculations forever. Several decades later, echoing scientific breakthroughs of its ancestors, a grandson of Amir Timur, Ulugh Beg, builds an observatory in today’s Samarkand expanding space for knowledge and making the cosmos closer. Among many discoveries associated with that place is the most accurate at the time measurement of the length of the year: 365 days, 5 hours, 49 minutes and 15 seconds - just a few seconds different from precise measurements with modern equipment. Later on, Shah Jahan, a direct ancestor of Amir Timur, builds an iconic Taj Mahal in modern day India marking a far south point of Central Asian cultural influence.
It comes almost as a cliche to talk highly about the Great Silk Road, however, it still seems important to mention that the network of routes lasted for more than 15 centuries surviving empires, ideologies, wars, environmental and technological shifters, famines and spanning for around 15,000-20,000 kilometers. It peaked twice in 600-900 CE during the Tang Dynasty and in the 13th-14th century under Mongols when Marco Polo visited and Altyn Orda was established. The Orda then gradually morphs into the russian empire and there is another speculative thought that travels through openings and dinners - it is not the collapse of russia we are witnessing, but the deeper, more complex one of Altyn Orda that has been falling apart for more than 500 years reestablishing itself first through expansive logic of russian imperialism, then through Modernistic project of the Soviet Union. Though in principle it has always been a top to bottom, vertical style of rulership with emphasis on military complex and vassal regimes at the borders. The XX century is particularly brutal because the memories of it are still present with nearly half of the population of Kazakhstan alone lost to asharshalyk - famine caused partly by sedentarization, partly by mismanagement, many more killed or imprisoned during repressions of the 20s and the 30s, then WW2. In the heated debates of the alkohol-infused nights another friend always points out that while causing miseries and applying extractive logic the Soviets contributed with science, infrastructure, and capital. True, but at what cost and how the history would have looked like if most of the thinkers were filled with the resources instead of bullets. Between 1920’s and 1960’s Moscow issues one decree after another to shift the border between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan five times - a usual suspect of any colonial campaign at the time to draw boarders in the place where none ever existed all while sending Gagarin into space from Baikonur the same decade (Baiqoñyr - Prosperouse Valley). Not only people are forced to migrate - the space itself is displaced. It is not without the irony or historical accuracy that several contemporary artists from the 1990’s are curious about space from the empty landscapes of Moldakul Narymbetov, through the search of impossible knots of Saken Narynov, Pulotas of Lidiya Blinova and Rustam Khalfin, to Astral Nomads of Sergei Maslov with his pointy spaceship yurt.

Moldakul Narymbetov
Takyr, 1995
Oil and acrylic on canvas
90 x 185 cm each
Courtesy of the artist’s estate and TOVA foundation
One rarely encounters human figures in Narymbatov's paintings. More often it is still life, landscapes, or depiction of steppe mudbrick houses eventually morphing into its surrounding. Created in the mid-1990s, the Takyr series is when Kazakhstani artists likely gained access to catalogues of American Abstract Expressionists, and possibly Japanese Gutai. Not to forget, abstract painting was associated with American ideology at the time, something dangerously unknown, most certainly hostile. Even suprematism that seemed to be favored by the regime almost fully disappeared in the museum storages soon after WW2. By the 1950s, on view across state institutions were almost exclusively exemplifiers of Socialist Realism with some occasional exceptions from Shukin or Morozov’s once private collections and alike with little to none abstract paintings. As a result, post collapse in the 1990-s, abstraction in general was something alien for Central Asia, even within the already rigidly constructed canon of what academic painting was at the time.
Narymbetovl’s interest, like that of other artists of the Kyzyl Traktor Art Collective, lies not so much within the undisturbed linearity of art history but more so within spontaneous, intuitive, sensual, and pre-modernistic. Of course, Narymbetov knew about Jackson Pollock and his contemporaries, after all it is in his studio over steaming matny I have once learned about Basquiat. Nevertheless, for Moldakul Takyr is not abstract or reactionary, above everything it is soil that rapidly dries out under the sun in the steppe after a heavy rain forming cracks similar to craquelure. Moldakul depicts different versions of the steppe surface at least four times: the painting Hungry Steppe 1994-2000; the Takyr, 1995 triptych from the collection of TOVA Foundation; diptych Takyr 1 and Takyr 2 also from 1995 and diptych Takyr from 2002 from private collection

Moldakul Narymbetov
The Hungry Steppe, 1994-2000
Oil and acrylic on canvas
179 x 246 cm (70,5 x 97 in.)
Courtesy of the artist’s estate and qazart.com

Saken Narynov
One-sided Knot with Two Planes, 1989
Metal, polyurethane
38 x 69 x 65 cm
Courtesy of the artist’s estate and Qazart.com
During a studio visit in 2021 Saken Narynov told me that as a child when he was around four years old he experienced the clash of space in front of his eyes, a vivid, nearly spiritual shift that struck his imagination. He remembered colorful kaleidoscopic and fractal-like dimension that left a lasting impression on the mind of the future architect and artist. Between mid 1980-s and mid 2000-s Narynov’s studio produced tens of maquettes from wedding palace in Astana to neo nomadic residential skyscraper with temporary yurt blocks, to dozens of sculptures and “paper” knots meant to look into the tapestry of the space itself. Narynov thought of a womb as of the first space one encounters and yurt is oh well too similar to this proto-dimention we all are coming from: no sharp angles, roundish, warm, cosy, safe sphere.
It becomes even more so interesting if to speculate about non-Euclidean geometry that occupied much of Narynov’s mind as he would be curious in everything that shapes and folds space itself: Klein’s bottle, mobius stripe, infinities and parallels, external and internal surfaces of objects. Narynov called it impossibilism and was looking beyond space, into things either extraordinarily small or extremely large searching for unifying visual and conceptual laws guiding this universe.

Saken Narynov
One-sided Knot with Two Planes, 1989
Metal, polyurethane
38 x 69 x 65 cm
Courtesy of the artist’s estate and Qazart.com
In 2013 in Astana Xi Jinping announced the new Silk Road Economic Belt - a post industrial look at regional trade and influence. Regardless of the historical proximity to greater imperial powers, Central Asia not only managed to last but remained one of the largest regions in the world connected through language, history, culture, economy and space. These notes are predominantly on Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan because major infrastructural changes in culture are taking place there. Nevertheless it is worth mentioning that the art scenes of Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan and Tadjikistan are also interconnected and act as a significant part of the local ecosystem related first through traditions, folklore and cuisine, then via avant-garde, unionization, institutions as well as social realism and reaction to it. At last it relates through the search of national identity during globalization in the 1990s and the rising potential of the decolonial turn today. While having substantially less capital and infrastructure, neighbours of Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan serve as reminders that contemporary art can occur even in ecosystems deprived from conventional engines like art fairs, galleries, or universities. That everything we do is, afterall, possible because of the artists, everything departs from them. In a strange way, the infrastructural vacuum of post soviet Central Asia created bottom to top environments where self-organization, independency, and experiment played pivotal roles for many years. An example would be Lazy Art summer residency organized by artists, curators and their friends in a form of annual field trips to Issyk Kul lake in Kyrgyzstan to combine vacation and easy-to-make, vernacular, strong in message artworks that often come out as fun, sharp remarks on the society, politics or art itself. There are many artistic duos with artists like Ulan Djaparov and Olesya Roskos in Kyrgyzstan, Umida Akhmedova and Oleg Karpov in Uzbekistan and Galim Madanov and Zauresh Terekbay in Kazakhstan to name a few. For several decades local art communities have been mostly self-sustainable social structures with little to none external support that nevertheless built lives and careers devoted to contemporary art. After decades of existing in semi-distant, isolated and rather grass-root driven conditions art scenes of Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan are entering a new phase where never-seen-before institutional space emerges. Such space often grants communities with support, knowledge and motivation while also challenging their independence and representation.

On Photo QOURDS & QURBAN, 2024–2025 by Slavs and Tatars in collaboration with Abdullo Narzullaev.
Photo courtesy of Andrey Arekelyan and Art and Culture Development Foundation
On Bukhara Biennale
Looking back to the XX century, anticipating processes that are now happening in Central Asia it becomes almost impossible to ignore the tension between city and anti-city where most of the artworks forming the core of art history at the time are either directly made out of predominantly industrial materials or address city-centric culture. The examples are numerous from the Fountain by Duchamp, through abstract expressionism and “art in the mechanical age of reproduction”, minimalism and eventually land art that escapes the city. Meanwhile city-culture is always informed by the periphery like in now common references to tribal African Art and the birth of Cubism or influence of Ukiyo-e on Van Gogh’s later work. Neon, glass, metal, concrete vs. wool, wood, ropes and sound, object vs. act, industrial vs. ritualistic, permanent vs. temporary, static vs. moving. Nevertheless, for the longest time the perceived sense that craft art and high art exist in a contraposition is inherently rooted in the location where the art was created–urban versus rural settings which probably has to do with institutions and the idea of practicing art professionally. Craft art, often seemingly based in practicality and tradition, typically is thought to emerge from rural areas where artisans create functional and decorative objects using local materials and techniques passed down through generations. In contrast, high art, characterised by its emphasis on aesthetic value and intellectual engagement, frequently is associated with urban settings where artists are thought of as innovators working only within their own paradigm. While this dynamic changes today with the decolonial turn and rising interest of academia towards everything marginal, the conventional object-centric art in a white cube setting still dominates. Institutions are only recently starting to debate over how to preserve, let’s say, oral tradition, performance, something ephemeral and temporal - something that was also present in the XX century and far before, however, has been often overlooked by bigger power structures. For me Ana Mandieta is an anti-city artist, for instance. In this sense, what Bukhara Biennale certainly does, is that it highlights a viewer’s implicit bias in locating where craft sits within class dynamics, urban cultural communities, and diasporic traditions in the highly modernised 21st century.

On Photo Inverted Fruits, 2025 by Taus Makhacheva in collaboration with Anel Ulumbekova, Adelina Uzyakova, Anastasiya Kim, Olga Kim, Tatevik Karapetian and Oydin Nur Centre (Uzbekistan)
Photo courtesy of Andrey Arekelyan and Art and Culture Development Foundation Night View
The place itself, of course, is very special and it is hardly imaginable what kind of a callosal effort was behind turning this ancient city to a safe, walkable, clean and contemporary art friendly space. Despite common critique of this exhibition being, as mentioned by one of the colleagues, “a Disney land for the eye”, it invites places, voices and perspectives rarely, if at all, seen anywhere else. Not to forget, one of the ideas proposed by curator Diana Campbell was to engage with local schools and artisans so that each project is a result of a collective, intersectional and often multidisciplinary process. This created sometimes seemingly artificial, sometimes, real and long lasting connections that are far more valuable than any temporary exhibition will ever be. There is no denial, Uzbekistan is a place with complicated histories, and all the regulars of somewhat young regimes where improvements are much needed in human rights, inclusion, education, elections, transparency and accountability. Yet, all that doesn’t arrive in one day, unfortunately and such processes can take decades (especially when former metropolises just can’t let it go) partly beginning with the projects of international scale as one can see, for example, with South Korea. Cultural policies started there in the mid 1990’s bringing results only in the past decade - impactful developments take time. Ağaş bir künde öspeydi - a tree doesn’t grow in one day.
Restructuring the system from the Soviet model very much pointed at propaganda and ideology to the international standards in the countries where quite a bit of decision makers are still one leg in the past is no fun. Hardly anyone who did not work in such a context can estimate the intricacy, timeline and emotional effort of delivering something like Bukhara Biennale. Indeed, it wasn’t the most politically aware exhibition out there and the absence of Uzbekistani leading stars like Saodad Ismailova, Vyacheslav Akhunov, and Dilyara Kaipova surprises, however, it wasn’t a pure spectacle to please the eye either. In line with recent Documenta, Venice Biennale or even partly Manifesta, Diana Campbell’s Bukhara was mostly about the irrational - an attempt to search instead of research, to approach art as a non-professional, somewhat spiritual act, to question object-centric, market-driven condition of art, to probably rethink what aura might be in the post internet, post Benjamin times of digital era with even more intense circulation of images and signs. Perhaps, context is the new aura and during the visit, the place itself felt very present, tangible and physical.

On Photo Shiru Shakar performance, 2025. Detail of Kutadgu Bilig, 2024-2025 by Saule Suleimenova in collaboration with Shiru Shakar (Uzbekistan).
Photo courtesy of Andrey Arekelyan and Art and Culture Development Foundation
The exhibition was slow and small - precisely the qualities that many international endeavors lack. With a certain degree of skepticism but for the sake of entertaining a thought, it seems like that demand from art to be political or critical is not necessarily effective or relevant in today’s situation. Even in regimes with historically more freedom of speech and stronger institutions, art, as a social agent of positive change, is also in crisis. Why to expect it in Bukhara? As much as it is sad to acknowledge, but in the light of what’s going on in global politics, art does not seem to be as strong of a power as it used to be 100 years back. If we need contemporary art to notice, explain or ridicule things, memes can probably act as a better medium. Regardless of all the efforts of all the great intellectuals on the west and east we are still where we are today. Populism is rising, scientific knowledge seems to be sabotaged, freedoms oppressed and accountability is corrupted in the most unexpected places. The sadness became unbearable and anyone who scrolled news on Ukraine or Palestine for longer than a week felt the weight of the world too heavy to operate in the domain of the rational. It is perhaps an escape but Recipes for Broken Hearts does seem to offer a space for maneuver, to hold on to the things that can still cure: love, healing, food, music. It is essential that the organizers also thought about the nighttime presentation as the doors were usually open until 8 p.m. something one rarely encounters in the world where most art is accessible during the day. The exhibition also carefully balanced between international star artists like Antony Gormley (but also Temur Jumaev) or Delcy Morelos (but also Baxtiyor Akhmedov) to the local young talents like Munisa Kholkhujaeva (but also Anton Nozhenko) or Nazira Karimi (but also Gulrukh Norkulova, Mehriniso Samieva, Rustamdjon Tagaykulov and Masudjon Madaliev): all creating site-specific, hardly movable, hardly contextualizable anywhere else but Bukhara artworks. The topic of healing takes many shapes from an attempt to heal the exhausted and colonized planet like in case with Dana Molzhigit (but also Alisher Narzullaev and Nargiza Shadmanova), or wounds of war like in case with Dana Awartani and Behkzod Turdiyev referencing floor of a historic Hamam al-Sammara destroyed in Gaza in 2023. Or healing communities like with Taus Makhacheva and her collaboration with Oydin Nur Centre shelter for women to which the studio donates profit from the artworks sold. Additionally, knowing the struggle of how to properly present but then also depict public art in its environment a separate round of applause goes to whoever chose to illustrate the catalogue not with the pictures, but with drawings of beautiful turquoise blue.

On the left: Tselinny Center of Contemporary Culture, september 2025. Photo: Laurian Ghinițoiu.
On the right: Almaty Museum of Arts. Photo: Alexey Naroditsky.
On Tselinny Center of Contemporary Culture and Museum of Modern Art Almaty
To juxtapose: it is also mind catching that Uzbekistan’s journey to contemporary art has started with an event funded by public money, while in Kazakhstan with institutions established by private families, patrons and collectors: Kairat Boranbayev is behind Tselinny and a Nurlan Smagulov is a founder of AMA. These different approaches affect the models backing up large cultural projects: historically private money is always managed more efficiently, though at a certain scale the participation of public funding is also inevitable. A healthy combination would probably be to balance between the two but for now such a split exists and its consequences are already visible: Bukhara marched through all the western media establishing itself as a regional force for the international art community loud and clear. Pelham communication was hired to manage the communication, a colleague mentioned that the Instagram feed of most of the MoMA board of trustees was full of Bukhara Biennale and everyone is wondering what’s happening in there. The enthusiasm was not, however, shared by some local artists and professionals in Tashkent who did not see or feel the impact inside of the country - a lot of resources were allocated to impress the outside. It worked very well though In Almaty, the feeling was quite the opposite - the celebration of both openings involved predominately local voices from various generations, cultural backgrounds, career stages and working in different mediums - most of the artists who in one way or another contributed to the development of contemporary art were involved in the program or exhibitions. While the city of Almaty is now granted with architecture by Asif Khan or a monumental work by Richard Serra, at the end of the day, the main character of the first couple of weeks of September was still locality with its histories, notions, politics, beauty, complexity, tradition and the reflection.
Almaty Museum of Modern Art’s presentation justified its title and immediately felt like a private collection becoming a museum with a strong scent of object-centric modernity. Massive attractive sculptures-statements, vivid walls of the Qanaqtar group exhibition, detailed thought provoking solo of Almagul Menlibayeva - all that resonates with what one would expect from a modern art museum: a research-based open archive of various objects carrying stories and framing time periods while in conversation with one another. A format is known and healthy - international stars act as light houses attracting audiences, perhaps, more interested in the hype than in the arts, but that too serves as a bridge to wider, more nuanced art history. Think of it as a portal, a place where the journey begins, not as of a trophy with which it ends. The museum is very much about the present, it displays leading living or recently deceased artists who already earned their place in art history and can now represent the overlapping era between the end of the troubled XX century with no least troubled beginning of the XX|.
Tselinny, on the other hand, chose a more risk-averse strategy and presented a fully performative body of work Barsakelmes that felt partly like a deconstructed purification ritual, partly like a roar of everything that was hiding beneath the surface: fear, resistance, representation, and orality. No fancy public art outside, objects or conventional formats: the viewer is expcected to co-create and participate, not only to observe and absorbe. To inaugurate an institution with an act instead of an object, is, perhaps, more in line with constructing the future than addressing the present for instance. This is perhaps why Tselinny does not have any permanent collection and consistently refers to itself as a center, not a museum, implying experiment, openness and the avoidance of favoritism. The logic of art history is a logic of exceptions and newly formed institutions attempt to challenge this methodology serving more as empty vessels than stuffed rooms. Though it still remains an open question how do we preserve oral tradition, new media, performances, sounds especially when it is an assemblage of all. Should we, at all, preserve it or is physical presence the only way to “remember” it? How does it challenge traditional ways of collecting and archiving?
Both models are equally important for the long term development of the proper cultural ecosystem for we cannot talk about the future, without acknowledging the present. Both seem to co-exist in harmony while focusing on two almost conflicting states of being. There is a third one often overlooked in today’s conversations that has also contributed to the cultural landscape: a State Museum of Art named after Abylhan Kasteyev.
While that museum was never meant to display contemporary art and the official state is resisting this phenomenon for the most part, some selected professionals inside of the institution housed significant exhibitions like the first museum solo of Yelena and Victor Vorobyevy in Kazakhstan or solo of Yerbossyn Meldibekov in 2015. The permanent collection also consists of the foundational names (though mostly through donations) from Georgy Tryakin-Bukharov to already mentioned Blinova and Khalfin making a somewhat representational hall of the core scene. In this rather still emerging and relatively fragile ecosystem, Kasteyev’s part is to, perhaps, unify the scene by inviting the past into the ongoing and ever evoking conversation. That way the city will have three cultural superpositions transcending three states of time, exchanging and multiplying knowledge, growing rising rhizomatically and ornamentally filling more gaps that are much needed to be filled.
Many words have already been said about the recent cultural adventures of Almaty — both positive and not. In this kaleidoscope of thoughts and emotions, it is hard to add anything relevant or authentic, but one should always try. And it can probably be an argument against trying.
So many exhibitions that we encounter seem to impress in the moment, only to fade away almost the next day. Others feel like nothing much, yet somehow continue living in your head rent-free for years. It always seemed odd when a few hours into a preview in, let’s say, Venice, you start overhearing opinions shared by visitors. Informational society with its derision of the new and the reaction to the new creates conditions where the context of art itself almost demands our immediate and utmost detailed reflection at all times. We know very well about how to think and write about art, but not as much about how to experience it. We share opinions as if they are demanded from us, seldom allowing time to decide what was important or not. Culture is much more complex than cultural professionals can comprehend. The truth is we don’t really know which seed we plant will grow into a strong tree — that’s why it’s better to plant as many as one can: the good, the bad, and the ugly. We don’t quite realize which lecture or a book or maybe a movie will hit this or that kid in their meow meow in which moment of their life. Maybe a year, sometimes it takes fifty. We don’t know where or how our brain stores art-related emotions and how we unpack it later on if ever. We like to pretend we know but it feels certain that art is not something consistent or linear, it is a pure chance - sometimes it clicks, more often it fades away to be forgotten on a side road of the river of time. Boom and it’s gone forever. Even if we appreciate something right away or are disturbed by it. That is why thinking about now and what is around is always so damn difficult and somewhat even pointless: you shoot at stars with a slingshot and then life goes on.
Of course it doesn’t mean that institutional critique is dead worldwide though it seems to be stuck somewhere between cancel culture, fight over resources, and paid PR articles while undoubtedly going through some structural changes. We ought to categorise, label and draw conclusions faster than the real situation evokes, sometimes preventing it to do so. Words can hurt and it is essential to be gentle at least within one’s own community and despite the nearly sacred importance of art do always place people above whatever object or idea there is. It is, if I may, a decolonial practice resisting bigger institutional and imperial forces, a practice of acceptance and guidance. Not to forget, critique was invented as a tool to make one’s practice better, not to stop them from tryingitnever again (though some exceptional cases require this particular approach). It doesn’t of course mean that the community should tolerate nasty things - and there are plenty - but giving your immediate surroundings a bit of an extra chance can help not to atomize things further. It keeps from playing on the side of the very powers that see the community divided and isolated. We are too often too in rush to label, categorise, offend or be offended, to place something in the box so complex it might take generations to unpack.
Partly that’s why I don’t have much to say about Bukhara Biennale, Tselinny Center or Almaty Museum of Modern Art or to even say it properly, choosing the right academic frame and words, using jargon that would set this piece of writing apart. I don’t, because I only want to say something good and obvious and boring but letting it go like that feels more honest than to search for little or large imperfections that were there too. What difference will it make to register something like that here in the face of eternity. Art is here precisely to oppose itself (and us with it) to mortality, to become this eternity. In this becoming words are just drops in the ocean. Everything as correctly said by John Cage, “I have nothing to say and I am saying it”. And another one by Borges, “Don’t talk, unless you can improve the silence”.
——
A few minor parts of the text were extracted from Master’s thesis “Crafting the city” by Joshua Horneff, Mimi Donaldson and Vladislav Sludskiy



