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League of Tenders

Her Labor: The Shine of Our Eyes

18 Sep 2025

Copy of Her Labor Cover.jpg

League of Tenders

Her Labor:
The Shine of
Our Eyes

18 Sep 2025

Departing from the outdated notion that embroidery, tapestry making, and working with fabrics are primarily women's domains, both in Western contemporary art and non-Western art scenes, the curatorial duo League of Tenders initiated a series of closed-door discussions titled Her Labor. Her Labor explored the works of five women artists — Milyausha Abaydullina, Darali Leli, Aisha Jandosova, Aziza Kadyri, Milana Khalilova — whose practices encompass various forms of so-called ‘arts and crafts.’ Hailing from diverse regions, including Central Asia, the Idel-Ural, and the North Caucasus, these artists engage with embroidery, tapestry, felting, and studying the ornaments of national dress and fabrics in a liberating manner. Beyond the joy of creating something tangible and beautiful, such work can connect women*, non-verbally transmit knowledge through generations, narrate histories from female perspectives, and resist both authoritarian regimes and capitalist appropriation.

During four non-public meetings, League of Tenders mediated discussions on artistic methods to “work not against but with wounds of the past” (Leslie C. Sotomayor, The Practice of Feminist Art Education, 2022), the privilege of intergenerational dialogue, the stigmatizing urges to dismiss this labor as ‘decorative,’ ‘touristic,’ and ‘exotic,’ and ways of imagining different futures together. Her Labor: The Shine of Our Eyes traces these beautiful, intimate, and honest discussions, resulting in a glossary born from these conversations. The curatorial duo League of Tenders feels privileged to share this knowledge with you, dear reader.

Her Labor: The Shine of Our Eyes will also be available in the native languages of the participants — Qazaq*, Udmurt, Bashqort*, Uzbek, and Circassian — and published partly on Ruyò and shared through other platforms.

Her Labor is part of Vleeshal’s International Nomadic Program 2024-2025 Repetition is a Form of Changing organized by League of Tenders.

* In the text below, participants of League of Tenders and Her Labor use "Qazaqstan" instead of "Kazakhstan." The currently accepted spelling, "Kazakhstan," is a transliteration of the Russian name for this country, while the endonym in use by Kazakh people themselves is “Qazaqstan.” In Kazakh Cyrillic, Kazakhstan is spelled as Қазақстан. According to linguists, the Kazakh letter "қ" is best represented by the Latin letter “q” in English. This is why it would be more accurately spelled as "Qazaq" and "Qazaqstan." The same letter "қ" appears in Башқортостан (Bashkortostan), which is why we use "Bashqort" and "Bashqorstan" instead, to honor and clarify the original spelling and pronunciation.

Participants:

Milyausha Abaydullina is an artist, visual researcher, and weaving master born in the Miyakin area, Bashqortostan, Urals. She graduated from the arts and graphics faculty of Bashkort State Pedagogical University named after Miftahedtdin Aqmulla. Her artistic practice is inspired by Bashqort’s traditional arts and crafts, especially weaving. She has participated in many exhibitions and forums dedicated to carpet weaving in Bashqortostan, Udmurt Republic, and Qazaqstan. Abaydullina actively shares her findings through public channels such as 'Bashqort.photomuseum' and ‘Genghis Khan's tear.’

Darali Leli is a writer, artist, fashion designer, curator, and founder of the Udmurt dress museum. Based in Izhevsk, Udmurt Republic, she comes from a family of Udmurt writers. Leli’s artistic practice centers on traditional crafts, including patchwork, weaving, embroidery, and folk art. She is deeply engaged in researching and engaging with the culture and struggles of Udmurt people, often dedicating her works to themes such as the loss of local identity, the elusive nature of antiquity, and exploration of Udmurt cultural codes.

Aisha Jandosova is a Qazaq-Kyrgyz diasporic human, (re)learner, and educator/designer, living between Almaty, Qazaqstan, and Providence, USA (on Wampanoag, Pokanoket, and Narragansett peoples’ land). Jandosova devotes her time and energy to creating and supporting spaces that allow Qazaq and Central Asian people to reconnect to their ancestors, heal, and reimagine loving futures. Her current practice involves the slow, long-term re-existencia (a term coined by Madina Tlostanova and Albán Achinte) of ancestral craft practices. Together with Aida Issakhanqyzy, Jandosova co-facilitates BABALAR PRESS, an experimental research, writing, and publishing initiative for relearning, reclaiming, and reimagining Qazaq ancestral knowledge.

Aziza Kadyri is a multidisciplinary artist and curator with a focus on live and digital performance, experimental costume, textiles, and immersive technology. Originally from Uzbekistan and now based in London, UK, Kadyri holds a BA in Fashion Design from Tsinghua University in Beijing, and an MA in Performance Design and Practice from Central Saint Martins in London. Her projects explore the themes of migration, displacement, social invisibility, identity, feminism, and the loss of language. Kadyri is the co-founder of Qizlar, a grassroots feminist collective based in Tashkent, Uzbekistan. She was the lead artist of the Uzbekistan National Pavilion at the 60th Venice Biennale of Art (2024).

Milana Khalilova is an artist and designer born in the village of Zalukokoazhe in Kabardino-Balkaria in the North Caucasus. She graduated from the College of Design at Kabardino-Balkaria State University, named after Khatuta Berbekov, in 2004. In 2017, she was a resident of the Mikhail Shemyakin Foundation in France, and up until recently, she lived in Nalchik, Kabardino-Balkaria. Khalilova’s work primarily focuses on animation, traditional craft techniques, and book design. Her professional and research interests include the interaction between the archaic forms of folk and collective art, and contemporary art practices, as well as exploring the ‘difficult heritage’ of the North Caucasus. Among her recent projects is a collaborative research project, Ulyap Songs: Beyond Circassian Tradition (2023), published by FLEE.

League of Tenders is an imaginary organization and curatorial duo, established in 2018 by curators, researchers, and friends Elena Ishchenko and Maria Sarycheva. The League focuses on cultivating collectivities and fostering affective dynamics within them. Over time, League of Tenders has focused on themes such as disability representation, overcoming the alienation of everyday labor, practices of care, support, and friendship in the age of disaster. Their projects disrupt traditional forms by placing concepts, people, and artworks in unexpected contexts, inviting them into dialogue. The duo has been appointed as Vleeshal's nomadic curators for Vleeshal's Nomadic Program 2024-2025.

English translation editor: Kitty Brandon-James

Weaving Worlds: Adopting and Adapting Traditional Craft 
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The image: Milana Khalilova and her work Deformation, 2023

Milana: I often think about traditional craft roles in the past, such as the role crafts like gold embroidery played in different historical contexts. Today, conditions have changed, and crafts’ original functions have been lost. So where do these crafts belong in modern life? To me, the answer lies in the realm of art.
 

Darali: We tend to separate ourselves from tradition. Grandmothers might be in folk costumes, singing traditional songs: we are modern and different. But Udmurt ethnofuturism shows that folklore can be contemporary. The creative group Emnoyumno (Divine Elixir), for example, has gratitude songs that are composed spontaneously in the moment, to thank someone.

 

I work with collecting, restoring, and popularizing traditional costumes. What interests me most is documenting how tradition changes and adapts to new realities. For instance, if a dress was to be worn by a nursing mother, the neckline would be made deeper and a chest panel would be added for convenience. In the early 21st century, aprons disappeared from the traditional dress of southern Udmurt women as their work changed: one did not need to wipe one’s hands quickly, and folk clothing gradually shifted from everyday practical wear to something more ceremonial.

 

A traditional Udmurt dress has a three-part structure: the upper section represents the higher world — gods and spirits; the middle, from chest to hips, symbolizes people; and the lower part is linked to ancestors and the afterlife. I am fascinated by intricate details. For example, folds point in one direction for the living, and another for the dead, and their number could show how many children a woman had. I have even heard a theory that these tucks protected against ticks — parasites would crawl up and get stuck in them.
 

Woven patterns, embroidery, and patchwork were not just decorative; they served as protective symbols, marking the boundaries between different worlds. A hemline, for example, could separate the world of the living from the world of the dead. What matters to me is understanding the deeper meaning behind these elements and exploring how folk clothing can continue to live: evolving in its own right rather than becoming mere museum artifacts. 

 

Aisha: Where does tradition begin? How is it created?

Recently, I learned something about my ata — my grandfather on my mother’s side. He seemed like a thoroughly Soviet man, a chemist at the Academy of Sciences, not overtly giving much thought to ancestral traditions. And yet, he used to send dyes from his lab to my great-aunt in the village. Thanks to him, her shyrdaks — felt carpets—were always the brightest, the most colorful.


Whether consciously or not, my ata and apa — my maternal grandparents — were gathering, preserving, and passing down knowledge within our family. Now, these stories give me an incredible sense of strength. My artistic practice is about exactly that — recognizing these connections and permitting myself to reinterpret tradition in my way. That is what we all need — to create our version of traditional dress, our interpretation. And, in that chorus of voices, tradition will continue to grow and evolve.

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The image: Adyghe women's dress (бостей) with gold embroidery

Gold embroidery is a traditional Circassian (Adyghe) craft, historically practiced by women. In the Circassian language, adyge ide and dyshe ide refer to various techniques of embroidery, braid weaving, and handloom weaving using gold, silver, and silk threads. A recurring motif in these embroidery patterns is the diamond shape, which serves as a symbolic code.
 

For her work Deformation, Milana created a six-meter canvas from golden silk ribbons, with the diamond as its central design element. The multiple layers in this piece reflect the complexity and depth of Circassian culture, while the added weights symbolize the current state of Circassian cultural heritage. 

 

Ethnofuturism is a movement in which literature, music, and visual arts reinterpret traditional creative practices. Proponents of Estonian ethnofuturism later introduced it to other regions, including Hungary, Finland, and the Finno-Ugric regions of Russia. The first ethnofuturist congresses and symposia appeared in the mid-1990s, becoming particularly active in Udmurtia. These gatherings were often given creative names, such as Musho Mu ("Land of Bees"), Odomaа ("Udmurt Land" where maa comes from the Finnish word for "land"), and Gondyr Veme (gondyr means "bear"; veme is "a collective endeavor," referring to communal activities like housebuilding) 

 

The works presented at ethnofuturist congresses combined different artistic genres, merging elements of performance, music, and theatre. Among the most notable Udmurt ethnofuturists, today are Kuchyran Yuri and Jon-Jon Sandyr, who created the Finno-Ugric Shamanic Orchestra Emnoyumno. This spontaneous ensemble invites participants to pick up any object and create music, embodying the inclusive and experimental spirit of ethnofuturism.


Shyrdak is a traditional Kyrgyz felt carpet made using a mosaic technique.

Sensory History and Memory Keepers: Gender, Collaboration and the Market
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The image: Aziza Kadyri wearing paranja of her great-grandmother Zulfiniso

Aziza: Craft is often considered less prestigious than fine art, while state cultural policies often emphasize craft because it is familiar to many people. In my work, I aim to challenge and dismantle this division between fine art and craft — an artificial hierarchy that does not apply to the art of Central Asia.

While working on a project for the Uzbekistan Pavilion at the Venice Biennale 2024, I spent a lot of time speaking with men who run textile factories. The master artisans who design the beautiful adras fabrics in Margilan are almost always men, though the actual weaving is done by women. There is a similar trend in other crafts such as ceramics, where renowned artisans tend to come from dynasties of male craftsmen. Though crafts are often perceived as a women’s domain, it is men who receive recognition. In patriarchal structures, a man can be acknowledged as an artist, while a woman often cannot. When it comes to well-known women in these fields, one of the few names that comes to mind is Madina Kasymbayeva, with whom I collaborated on the project for the Pavilion.

 

Madina is Uzbekistan’s most successful suzani (silk or cotton) embroiderer, and she now has the resources to employ women as apprentices — often those from disadvantaged backgrounds or difficult circumstances. She says that embroidery requires a particular state of mind. Around twenty people, not including Madina and myself, worked on the blue curtain (part of the installation) presented at the Uzbekistan Pavilion. The project brought together different women who were initially hesitant to participate because it involved patchwork rather than the embroidery they were accustomed to. But over time, it became a reason for them to gather, share news, gossip, and recite duas (prayers) — to exist together in that space. I like to believe they wove their emotions and stories into the fabric. They had agency in this work — the design was slightly altered, and they contributed to selecting the fabrics.

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The image: Aziza Kadyri
Don't Miss The Cue, 2024

The Uzbekistan National Pavilion at the 60th Venice Biennale of Art
Photo by Ivan Erofeev

Milyausha: The daughters of a weaver once told me that their mother wove palas (flat weave rugs) only for them (five or six for each daughter, and there were eight of them) and for their relatives. She never wove for others or sold her work, explaining, “Мин күҙ нурҙарымды һатмайым” (Min küz nurzarymdy satmayym) — literally in Bashqort, “I do not sell the shine of my eyes.” However, “küz nury” also has a figurative meaning, referring to the results of one’s labor. When we were searching for a title for a project about embroidery at the Eurasian Museum of Nomadic Civilizations, we recalled a message an apayka (older woman) in our work chat: “Күпме күҙ нурҙарын түгеп ултырҙыҡ” (Küpme küz nurzaryn tügep ultırdyq) — “How much of the shine of our eyes (our labor) we have poured into this.”

Milana: To this day, I cannot put into words the emotions I feel when looking at [traditional Circassian] gold embroidery. A person who does not possess inner freedom could never create such works. How did these women think? How did they feel? Was there patriarchy at the time? What place did women have in the society? 

 

The social position of women in North Caucasian society under contemporary Russian cultural hegemony is the most painful issue for me. A woman’s role and responsibilities are deeply embedded in the system, to the extent that she often does not even recognize her desires: her ascribed purpose is to start a family, raise children, and meet the expectations of others. This creates a false sense of duty to others and leaves no room for self-discovery. I am still working through these ingrained beliefs. My practices — specifically felt-making, and creative work in general — are my way of changing this reality.

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The image: Aziza Kadyri
Don't Miss The Cue, 2024
The Uzbekistan National Pavilion at the 60th Venice Biennale of Art
Photo by Ivan Erofeev

Darali: Women have always played a significant role in Udmurt culture; they oversee many aspects of life. Today, the responsibility for preserving Udmurt cultural traditions falls largely on women. In rural areas, it is women activists working in schools and libraries who keep these traditions alive. I call them “universal women” because their homes are clean and welcoming, they cook, do handicrafts, sing and dance in folk ensembles, and still find time for social and political engagement. The role of Udmurt women is so strong that I’ve never felt powerless. On the contrary, a woman has authority; she initiates projects in culture, politics, urban spaces, and villages.

For several years, I was part of a social and political movement where 80% of the members were women. In national literature, women dominate the field, yet major literary works are still written by men — women write extensively but are published far less. Udmurt dresses are made exclusively by women. I know of only one male weaver, Alexander Chetkaryov. Men are abandoning crafts, leaving institutions dedicated to language and cultural preservation, and ceasing to write. Instead, they pursue financial stability, which is impossible to achieve in the cultural sector. This is how assimilation is happening.

Aisha: When it comes to gender roles in Kyrgyz and Qazaq traditional practices, I believe my ancestors — regardless of gender — were transdisciplinary. Everyone did multiple things; everyone did whatever was needed. One might say that women were responsible for soft goods and textiles, but that argument quickly falls apart when we consider that women also assembled and dismantled yurts. It might be said that men worked with leather, yet it was women who prepared the leather for the craft. The craft was a collaboration across all genders, just like raising children, preparing food, or caring for livestock. There was no hierarchy among these tasks.

Milyausha: In the past, weaving looms were passed from house to house within a village. When my grandmother passed away, my grandfather brought a loom into the house and wove carpets for the children she had not had time to make them for. He, too, was a weaver. In Bashqort, there is a term for a man who embraces women’s crafts — bisäkәй. Bisä means “woman” so bisäkәй refers to a man who resembles a woman. My grandfather was such a man, and I am proud of him.


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The image: Aziza Kadyri
9 Moons, 2023
Photo by Alexandr Anufriev

Adras is a handwoven natural fabric composed of 50% silk and 50% cotton. It is traditionally woven in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. Adras is known for its durability, vibrant colors, and long-lasting quality. However, its production process is incredibly labor-intensive and time-consuming.

Suzani (from the Persian suzan, meaning "needle") refers to a woven fabric embroidered with silk or cotton threads using special stitches such as basma, yurma, and kanda-khayol. The embroidery is done on cotton fabric, silk, or velvet, with a lining, and finished with a special trim or black fabric. A suzani typically has a closed composition, with a decorative wide border and a central design filled with symmetrical rosettes or other motifs. 

In her work Nine Moons, Aziza Kadiri reflects on her grandmother’s lost dowry — what remained of it was a suzani from Jizzakh, a region known for a highly distinctive embroidery style that isn’t practised anywhere else. The composition of this suzani was built around nine circles, which she used as the basis for creating nine embroidered stories of the women in her family — stories that can be explored through AR.

Dua is a prayer or supplication to Allah in Islam.

'Author Once Known": Contested Authority, Authorship, Anonymity and Amnesia
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The image: Milyausha Abaydullina working on They wove, 2024

Milyausha: Bashqort women didn’t usually sign their carpets. It wasn’t practical, but it also reflected their modesty. At most, they might include the year the piece was made, but even that was uncommon. I’ve often seen weavers’ names on Ukrainian kilims (flat woven carpets) or those made by Qazaqs in Chelyabinsk. Once, I spotted the letter “R” on a Bashqort carpet, but it turned out to be a dedication from the weaver, Mokärämä äbey, to her son Radik.

One of the only films about Bashqort weavers is called Miyakinskaya Rainbow – Asaly Palas. Masters of Folk Weaving of Bashqortostan (2000) by Sarvar Surina. Sarvar traveled to my home district, Miyakinsky, and made a heartfelt documentary about all the weavers she could find.

One of the women in that film is my grandfather’s first wife, Hälime. One day, she found out my grandfather had fallen in love with another woman — my grandmother. So, she decided to leave him. She took her cow, took her daughter, and walked back to her village. Only later did she realize she was expecting his son. This story means so much to me — it is part of my personal family history.

Hälime’s name appears in my work They wove. I dedicated it to the weavers of my district, using names from Sarvar’s film and adding my grandmothers’ names too. Of course, my own name is not on the carpet — I’m following their tradition. Many people who saw it asked, “Is this a shäjäre (a genealogical record)?” Even though I had not thought that way, it became a kind of shäjäre (shejire) for my Miyakinsky district.

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The image: Milyausha Abaydullina

They wove, 2024

Weaving, wool, acryl, cotton

It upsets me that so many weavers will never be remembered by name. To me, every weaver is an artist, and they deserve recognition. They chose colors, dyed the threads, and added their touch to every piece. There’s this whole world of women artists we know nothing about. You won’t see them at festivals or exhibitions. They’re disappearing right before our eyes, and I want to meet them, document their work, and learn from them.

 

Aisha: Qazaq syrmak and Kyrgyz shyrdak carpets aren’t signed either. Early ethnographic expeditions rarely recorded names. For example, you look at photos from Samuil Dudin’s expeditions [Dudin, was an ethnographer, photographer, and founder member of the ethnographic department of the Russian Museum in St. Petersburg] — you know the photographer’s name, the years, the location, the details of the expedition. But the names of the women who made the artifacts? Nowhere to be found. The object itself was important, whether collected or photographed — but not its maker.

 

Recently, at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, I saw a usefully revised label on an artwork: “Author Once Known” instead of the usual “Author Unknown”. The artist was known once — who is responsible for their name being lost?

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The image: A Qazaq family. The photograph was taken by Samuil Dudin in 1899, in present day Abay region, Qazaqstan.

Kilím is a flatwoven, reversible handmade carpet.

 

Shäjäre (shejire) is a genealogical record that traces family lineage, traditionally through the male line among the Bashqorts, Qazaq, Kyrgyz, and some other Turkic peoples. In today’s Bashqortostan, there is an emerging phenomenon of the "women’s shäjäre," which centers on documenting and honoring the names of female ancestors.

 

Samuil Dudin was a Russian and Soviet ethnographer, artist, photographer, and collector. He built his academic expertise through numerous expeditions across Central Asia, Mongolia, and Buryatia, where he actively photographed and took detailed notes. Later, he capitalized on this knowledge by becoming a curator and one of the founders of the Ethnographic Museum in Saint Petersburg. Among his key works are Photography in Scientific Expeditions (1923) and Carpet Weaving in Central Asia (1928).

Inheriting Knowledge Indirectly: Traditions, Bridges, Blocks and Rupture
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The image: Darali Leli wearing ayshon, traditional wedding hair piece made by Tatyana Moskvina, monisto made by Galina Matveeva, and contemporary Udmurt dress made by Darali Leli. Photo by Elya Lugovaya

Milyausha: I am a craftswoman (though I’m not sure I like that word) specializing in carpet weaving and textile panels inspired by Bashqort ornaments. My grandmothers wove, my grandfather wove, but I had no idea about it. My grandmother, however, really cared that I knew how to do handiwork — she praised her kelin (daughter-in-law), my mother, for teaching us to knit and scolded her other daughters-in-law for not passing these skills on to their daughters. I only truly started learning the craft when I entered the Art and Graphics Faculty at Miftakhetdin Akmulla Bashkir State Pedagogical University, where I met our dean, Talgat Khasanovich Masalimov. He is a painter, a graphic artist, and a master of decorative and applied arts. In the early 2000s, he began reviving traditional Bashqort felt art. Through conversations with him, I realized how powerful traditional art is, and felt compelled to immerse myself in it.

 

Darali: I do not have formal training. My introduction to traditional Udmurt clothing came from rummaging through my grandmother’s wardrobe in the village of Staraya Monya and trying on my mother’s Udmurt dresses. I had looked at these garments since childhood — wondering, for example, why the neck was always covered, and why the collar always had three buttons? After graduation, I got into organizing fashion shows featuring local designers, studying contemporary dresses based on traditional cuts, and learning from Tatyana Nikitichna Moskvina, a master of Udmurt dressmaking. She, in turn, gathered her knowledge from elderly women who shared their secrets of Udmurt dressmaking with her.
 

Milana: I have a friend, artist Ruslan Mazlo, who works with the traditional craft of ardzhen, a reed mat weaving. He learned this skill from his mother, who got it from her mother — this craft has been passed down through his family. He transformed this craft from traditional craft into contemporary art, which now supports his livelihood and family. I work with felt-making, but I never had any experience of this craft being passed on within my family — no one in my family was involved in felt-making. I learned it from my painting teacher, Larisa Abayeva while studying in college. We became close, and I began working with her after classes.

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The image: Milana Khalilova working with felt 

Photo by Maxim Kerzhentsev

Aisha: Unfortunately, none of my immediate relatives — neither my mother nor my apa — taught me felt-making, shim-shi (reed weaving), or traditional patterns. As far as I know, no one taught them either. But as I got older, I realized just how skilled with their hands my apa and my mother are. My apa taught me to knit. She would buy wool, dye it, and knit for herself and our family. Knitting isn’t a traditional Kyrgyz craft, but it was a common Soviet-era practice, and my apa passed that tradition on to me. And I would like to think of knitting as a recent ancestral practice in my family.
 

Knowledge is not always passed down directly — it also happens through observation, just by being around. Not long ago, I was learning to dye wool, and as I caught the scent of wool steaming in a pot of boiling water, it brought back a childhood memory—the smell of warm, damp wool from my apa’s hand-knit pants drying on the radiator after I’d come from the cold. In a way, through knitting, my apa managed to preserve our family’s connection to wool-working.

 
Milyausha: In the documentary Miyakinskaya Rainbow — Asaly Palas. In the Masters of Folk Weaving in Bashqortostan, one of the filmmakers asks the weavers if they are passing their craft on to the next generation. One of the women replies that nowadays, no one — meaning my mother’s generation — is interested in it. Mösliämä, one of the film’s heroines and a weaver from my mother’s village, also did not understand our interest when we visited her. But for me, it was so important to meet her while she was still alive and talk to her. For her, carpets and her skills were just part of everyday life.

 

At Mösliämä’s, I saw a palas (a flat woven rug) with huge red roses — Bashqort women started weaving these in the second half of the 20th century, borrowing ornamentation from Ukrainian and Belarusian artisans, as well as from knitting charts, postcards, and even chocolate box packaging that was introduced around that time. Most often, patterns were passed from one weaver to another. If a kelin (a new bride) arrived in a village, she would bring a new carpet with her, and if the village hadn’t seen that pattern before, the local weavers would adopt and reproduce it. They did not sketch designs back then — they wove them directly by eye from the original carpet. New carpets were important because people rarely traveled, so creating new designs and developing ornamentation was an exciting and valuable process.

 

Darali: Our conversations are also a way of passing down knowledge. We are like a single organism — if I’m missing something, another person can fill in the gaps, and vice versa.


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The image: Paper ornaments-making workshop in Almaty, led by Aisha Jandosova, using templates by QAYTA. Photo by Sima Omarqulova

Kelin is a term used in Qazaq, Kyrgyz, Tatar, Uyghur, Uzbek, and Bashqort languages to address a daughter-in-law.

 

Ardzhen is a traditional Circassian craft of weaving mats, practiced by both men and women. These mats were commonly made from reeds.

 

Shim-shi or Chiy is a traditional Qazaq and Kyrgyz mat made from the stems of shi/chiy, a type of steppe reed.


Felt-making is a traditional, but not originally Circassian, wool-working technique. While Circassians used wool to create individual elements of clothing, they did not traditionally produce large, felted textiles with unified narratives or ornamentation. Felt-making as a technique is also present in Bashqort, Udmurt, Uzbek, Kyrgyz, and Qazaq cultures.

Archives in Embroidery: Preserving Palimpsestic Pasts
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 The image: Reference image for Aisha Jandosova practice

Jeli (border) ornament on the south side of a tuskiyiz (a type of tapestry), made in the beginning of XX-century, in North Qazaqstan region (near Qızıljar).

Photo by Klavdiy Tshennikov

Aziza: Ornament is like a written language that can be interpreted in various ways. There is a world of folk interpretations — by embroiderers, keepers of traditions, and those who sell embroidery. Then there is the academic approach, which looks at history, the influence of Zoroastrianism, and so on. I do not fully understand how these approaches are connected yet; there are many factors. For example, during the Soviet period, knowledge was erased due to the change in political systems, the suppression of religion, and so on. What remained was the folk interpretation. Take the ornament "chur chiragh." Today, people recognize it differently in folk consciousness: some say it’s "bodom," "bodomgul" — an almond-shaped ornament that takes different forms depending on the embroidery school, but historically, this ornament was based on the image of a four-wick lamp used during Zoroastrianism. "Chur chiragh" like many other images, took on a more plant-like form after the arrival of Islam. Another example is the ornament "zuluk," a traditional pattern in the shape of the letter S. In Uzbek, it translates to "leech," and it is also known in folk tradition as "leech" or "snake." According to one researcher of Central Asian applied arts, Elmira Gul, this pattern is linked to a Zoroastrian image of two intertwined snakes, representing good and evil, and is closely tied to the concept of harmony and the duality of the world.
 

Aisha: Ornament is the language our ancestors used to communicate in. I try to memorize and recreate certain patterns from memory, so that little by little, the ornament becomes part of my embodied knowledge again. The core of the English word for "remembering" is "member," meaning part or component. How can I make something, like knowledge of ornamentation, part of my body again?

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The image: Aisha Jandosova

a papercut reproduction of jeli ornament on the south side of a tuskiyiz photographed by Klavdiy Tshennikov in the beginning of XX-century, in North Qazaqstan region (near Qızıljar). Photo by Aisha Jandosova

It seems we were not only forced to forget who we are but also to adopt a completely different, distorted view of ourselves. For example, our ancestors had ornaments called camel’s eye and camel’s hoof. But just a couple of years ago, in Almaty, there were billboards with a huge image of a camel and a caption: "Don’t be like a camel!" The city authorities meant that people should not spit in public places. But for our ancestors, the camel was a sacred animal. In the steppe, in the very harsh landscape, especially in winter when the cold makes the ground as hard as stone, camels were one of the few animals that could survive for prolonged periods without water and dig into the frozen ground with their hooves to find food. The camel was a companion and collaborator for life in the steppe. The respect for camels was so great that camel wool was only used for valuable items — belts or jackets, which were also considered protective amulets. Very few people would dare to make a carpet out of camel wool and step on it. Our ancestors thought: "Be like the camel, learn from the camel!". Today, this important animal has become a symbol of deviant behavior.

 

Milana: The patterns of traditional golden embroidery are connected to Circassian gardens and sacred trees, around which the whole life of the Circassians was centered. I read the notes of General Philipson, who described the moment when a sacred tree was felled during the Russo-Caucasian War. The soldiers were astonished when, as they were cutting the trunk, they found a stone at the tree’s base. What did this mean? How did the Circassians grow trees with stones inside them? There are many questions. I came across an archival photograph that confirms the existence of stones at the base of sacred trees. It is likely that large boulders were placed at the base of the tree to make it more resilient and to ensure it lived longer. There is embroidery that shows a stone with a tree growing on it. An embroidery piece from the collection of the Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg is described as a "Vase with a Flower" but it is unlikely that the Circassians had vases with flowers in the past, or that it was something so significant it would be archived in embroidery. For me, the parallels with Circassian gardens are obvious.

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 The image: Circassian Sacred Tree

Circassian Gardens practice planting and grafting wild fruit-bearing plants—pears, apples, plums, quinces, chestnuts, and many others — a practice developed and refined by the Circassians over centuries. Through grafting wild forest trees, new fruit-bearing varieties were produced. Circassian gardens covered vast areas. This practice was almost lost due to the Russo-Caucasian War and colonization, which forced many Circassians to relocate and leave their traditional lands. 


Sacred Trees were specially planted trees around which Circassians gathered for various purposes — councils, courts, funerals, weddings, offerings, and harvest celebrations.

Reproducing the Practices of our Ancestors: A Sensory History of Forgetting and Remembering
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The image: Darali Leli
Udmurt dress with prison jargon
Site specific work on the place of labor camp Lokchimlag

Photo by Revolt Center

Aisha: The primary imperial violence is that we have forgotten ourselves. Poet Ross Gay once said that for the ancestors of many of us, the apocalypse has already happened. The apocalypse — the death of worlds, ways of life, worldviews, and practices — is something we experience on a bodily level. For some Central Asian peoples, this occurred when we were forcibly sedentarized.

Milana: The Circassians had a special connection with trees, one that was largely forgotten and lost due to the Russo-Caucasian War of 1763–1864 and colonization. Like sacred trees, Circassian gardens were cut down to make way for new fortresses and roads during the war. Only isolated descriptions of Circassian gardens have survived, mostly not from locals, but from visiting travelers, researchers, and Russian generals who arrived in the Caucasus during the war.

I do not want to idealize the Circassians — we had slavery, human trafficking, and betrayals. But the people who created these gardens — how must they have felt the soil, the land, the air, to integrate so deeply with this environment? There are only a few photographs left, but even they reflect how humans and trees are two sentient, interconnected beings.

 

Circassian gardens were integrated into the ecosystem — forests, landscapes, birds, animals, and insects. The forest always remained dominant. The gardens provided sustenance, but knowing how to tend them required coordinated collective work and knowledge that was acquired and passed down over time. Anyone who entered the forest had to perform certain rituals. There was a shared body of knowledge and rules that shaped everyone’s life. It was a kind of ecostate. Why can’t Circassian gardens become a shared, universal experience that serves as a model for building the future?

 

Unfortunately, I cannot discuss Circassian gardens and our traumas from home.

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The image: Darali Leli
Udmurt dress with prison jargon
Site specific work on the place of labor camp Lokchimlag
Photo by Revolt Center

Darali: I have experience working in the Udmurt gymnasium. Imagine its museum. How do we tell the story of Kuzebay Gerd, the namesake of this gymnasium — a national Udmurt leader and poet who was repressed and executed in the Solovki prison camp? The question is how to work with so-called “difficult heritage.” On the one hand, we need to talk to students about the SOFIN (Union for Liberation of Finno-Ugric Peoples) case and its consequences, but on the other hand, wouldn’t it be better to allow them to study and immerse themselves in these sad chapters of history?

Aisha: Speaking through beauty, through wisdom, through the alternative coexistence of people that we were made to forget — that is the kind of alternative approach that is more positive for today and the future. This is the history I would want to read to my hypothetical child. It is a history of beauty. Our people were not just warriors who could fight and had no human needs — they cultivated gardens and maintained them, and people of all genders were involved in this. How can we remember ourselves in everyday life, in work, in collective efforts, rather than as warriors from epic tales? What we do in our practices is to save and restore the worlds that were suppressed. Roland Vasquez and Saodat Ismailova have an interview in which they talk about how important it is to remember these worlds within us. This is what I want to do in my projects and why I choose craft practices.

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The image: Darali Leli
Udmurt dress with prison jargon
Site specific work on the place of labor camp Lokchimlag
Photo by Revolt Center

Madina Tlostanova is a big hero for me because she gave me a language. In my understanding, she says: “Hey, how about jumping over this colonial period and going into the past, into the precolonial period, and spending time with our ancestors there, learning from them? What will happen then? What will we be able to remember?” She is assisted in this by the concept and practice of re-existencia, proposed by Adolfo Albán Achinte. This method involves reproducing the practices of our ancestors and seeing what information becomes available to us this way. These could be craft practices but also smells, tastes, and colors. Re-existencia consists of two parts, ‘resistance’ as an act of defiance and ‘existence anew’ as living in a different, new way.

All my practice is built on repetition, on reproducing what my ancestors did. Nomadic Central Asian people created their material world. How do we, as ancestors who create futures for those who come after us, remember within ourselves the creators, the dreamers, and the caretakers that our own ancestors were?

Milyausha: It reminds me how ethnofuturists say that in every village, they search for the inner Udmurtia. And once, thanks to a symposium they held, I visited the village where Albert Razin was born. It was so alive! The village collected and sold milk on a cooperative basis, hosted celebrations, and even had a musical ensemble. They do not intend to give up! Seeing such a village today is a rare joy.

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The image: Kuzebay Gerd

Kuzebay Gerd was a Udmurt poet, prose writer, playwright, translator, ethnographer, folklorist, and national and public figure. In 1937, he was repressed on charges of Udmurt nationalism and executed in the Solovki prison camp. Kuzebay Gerd became one of those repressed in the fabricated SOFIN case (Soyuz Osvobozhdeniya Finskikh Narodov — Union for Liberation of Finno-Ugric Peoples). According to various sources, between 28 and 31 people were repressed in connection with this case, including writers, poets, and ethnographers of Udmurt, Komi, Erzya, Mari, Mordovian, and Karelian descent.

Batyr is an honorary title among Mongol and Turkic peoples, given for military merit; it was also used in folklore to denote outstanding warriors. The term is widely used in the folklore of Turkic peoples and in everyday life as a personal name. The image of Mongol and Central Asian peoples as embodied by the “batyr” still prevails in colonial contexts, turning representatives of these peoples into idealized warriors, devoid of needs and capable of guarding the empire’s borders.

Albert Razin was a Udmurt activist and scholar dedicated to preserving and promoting the Udmurt language. On 10 September 2019, he committed an act of self-immolation in protest of the law that proposed making the study of minority languages, including Udmurt, voluntary, which threatened to reduce the number of Udmurt speakers. The motto he held bore a quote from the Dagestani poet and writer Rasul Gamzatov, “If my language disappears tomorrow, I am ready to die today.”

Erased Archives: Imagination as a Historical Method
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The image: Aisha Jandosova prototyping a DIY-toy yurt

Aisha: How do we tell the stories of those whose shoulders we stand on? Black scholar and historian Saidiya Hartman developed the concept of critical fabulation. Early in her work, she became disillusioned with how the stories of enslaved people—her people—were told. These were people whose lives were either absent from archives or documented only through the records of slave owners. Hartman permitted herself to use critical imagination, to fill in or move beyond these archival silences. To me, she is saying something like: “Yes, I will work with archives and documents, but I will also acknowledge their limitations and their gaps. I will exercise my critical imagination to fill these voids with the stories of my people.” How else can we tell the stories of those whose histories have been deliberately erased? How do we talk about our heroes — about the figures who are historically important to us — when we recognize that much of what we know about them is shaped by propaganda, whether Soviet or ethno-nationalist? I know the word “speculation” carries a negative connotation in Russian, but perhaps we need to speculate and imagine getting closer to these figures like Kuzebay Gerd without placing them on pedestals. Can we allow imagination to be part of history?

 

Darali: It seems to me that the [Russian] state is now taking a cautious approach to national identity, ensuring that it does not become too prominent and extensive. Even in the Udmurt Republic, the Udmurt language is not meant to persist too strongly. The state demands a version of Udmurt culture that is easily comprehensible to all — for example, Udmurt cuisine — fitting into a homogenized, multi-ethnic space. On the other hand, experimental approaches to national identity have faded into the underground.

 

In the 1990s, the artist and architect Kasim Galikhanov envisioned a Center for Udmurt Spiritual Culture, inspired by Udmurt ethnofuturism and Finno-Ugric cultural connections. Architects like the Finnish Alvar Aalto and the Hungarian Imre Makovecz based their designs on nature, exploring links between nature and the cosmos. At that time, Udmurt ethnofuturism offered more of an abstract and experimental take on national culture. Today, folk culture’s vision has become more conservative; the audacity of ethnofuturism has faded. 

 

Milana: The present speaks to the past in such a way that a truly satisfying future for us does not seem to be emerging. We view ourselves through the romanticized image of the warrior — the fearless Circassian on the battleground. Often, Circassians know their history through lenses of catastrophe and trauma — starting with the Russo-Caucasian War and onward.

For a long time, I worked for a children’s art magazine — the only children's publication in the Circassian language in our republic. Many Circassian intellectuals from the older generation would visit our editorial office. They were part of a traumatized Soviet generation, nostalgic for the romanticized Oriental past of Circassia. For them, Circassians were held in the highest regard. Yet, from the same people, I also heard that it was the Russian Empire that brought us culture. “We didn’t have writers; then writers emerged. We didn’t have composers; then composers emerged.” It’s astonishing how two contradictory, yet equally colonial narratives can coexist within one mind. 

 

Circassian gardens are a phenomenon that reveals another side of Circassian culture, but unfortunately, very few people are familiar with it. The more I study this topic, the more I feel the need to find ways of speaking that prevent people from taking sides or dismissing the past and present with a spirit of aggression or self-pity. I want this dialogue to serve as a form of therapy.


Darali: Once, while working at the youth art residency in Izhevsk, I came across a stack of postcards featuring Russian literary classics. I gave all of them Udmurt names. For example, Alexander Sergeyevich Pushkin became Sergey Sandyr. In Udmurt tradition, surnames are often derived from patronymics or matronymics. In a way, I “Udmurtised” them. Curator Anton Valkovsky took note of this and recognized it as an artistic statement.

Non-Verbal Nets of Solidarity
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The image: Milyausha Abaydullina
Tell me, traveller

Weaving, wool, acryl, cotton
Photo by Rushana Yunusova

Milyausha: For many nomadic and Indigenous peoples, weaving is an important tradition. This is true in both Latin America and Central Asia. In general, the material itself — wool — is warm and familiar. I love watching how weaving traditions spread; for example, Bashqort women have learned and adopted many techniques from Ukrainian and Belarusian women living in Bashqortostan. I’d like to quote a native weaver from North America, Barbara Teller Ornelas. When asked, “You travel to many countries; what do you find in common?” she replied:

“We are so similar. As if we all grew up as weavers in one family and then went our separate ways, keeping what we learned from our house and taking it with us. Weaving has its own voice. <...> When I explained my work to them, my words were translated into Spanish and then Quechua, and when they told me their stories we translated in reverse. But when it came to weaving, they already knew what I was saying, because there’s a weaving language that is common where other languages are not. The same thing happened when I went to Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. I’m explaining my work, and all the weavers are nodding. We all have the same tools: we have spindles; we have carding tools; and we have cones — I felt at home. When I was in Kyrgyzstan, they gave me my yurt, and I was like, ‘This is my Hogan (home).’”

 

Darali: In Udmurt folklore, the word for “beautiful” — bukaris’ — means “brought from afar, from Bukhara.” The etymology of the word goes back to the times of Volga Bulgaria, when caravans from Bukhara brought beautiful fabrics to us. The name I chose for myself — Darali — means “brocade” or “silk.” The Udmurt word for “giant” is rendered as alangasar in the south or zerpal in the north. Zerpal refers to the Komi-Zyrians; it means “from the land of the Zyrians.” Alangasar relates to the nomadic tribes of the Alans and Khazars, about whom the Udmurts had some knowledge and who have survived in our legends as giants. In this way, we have connections both with Central Asia and the North Caucasus that stretch back to epic times.

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A Hogan is a traditional dwelling of the Navajo people, typically constructed from clay or earth. It usually features a circular shape with a domed roof and serves as a family home. The hogan symbolises a close connection with nature and differs from a yurt by its use of local materials and distinctive construction details.

Colonial Wounds, Tragic Optimism, and The Love Language of Worry
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The image: Aziza Kadyri
Her stage, 2023
two channel sound video

Milana: On May 21st, we remember the victims of the Russo-Caucasian War. We were not taught about this in childhood, but when I began to feel connected to Circassian culture, I started attending memorial events. Every May 21st, people gather, light candles, sing songs from that period, and try to talk about the past and the future. I attended these events for two consecutive years, but then I stopped. I saw that the commemoration was taking place in a Soviet-style cultural center, and the event itself had a distinctly Soviet flavor. We were remembering and mourning our pain using the formal frameworks of Soviet black-and-white films. That’s not how these events and people should be commemorated and mourned. True, there are more conscious and thoughtful events, but I decided to distance myself from the official mourning events. My husband [Bulat Khalilov, journalist, researcher, and founder of the Ored Recordings label] still attends, but I decided that I would stay in my studio and work — that would be my way of commemorating.

I only recently realized that we were born, grew up, and continue to live in anxiety. This state has become normal for us. My art practice is a way to weave all the pains, anxieties, and neuroses together and emerge in a state where I can live. I also choose to look for optimistic ways out; the feeling of hopelessness is destructive for me. I no longer feel pain; I feel aggression.

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The image: Aziza Kadyri
Her stage, 2023
two channel sound video

Aisha: I am learning to be an optimist, and it is a process of unlearning. We have so much anxiety, and it was passed to us from our parents. My parents’ love language was worrying about me, checking on me, and thinking about the worst-case scenarios. I got used to thinking, “What if everything goes terribly wrong?” Now, I try to think, “What if everything goes wonderfully well?” I do not call it pain — it is a colonial wound, to use Rolando Vazquez’s term. Sometimes it hurts, and on some days, I feel it more than others.

What does my colonial wound look like? My childhood toys included Katya the doll, Petya the rooster, and later Barbie. What surrounds children are such important containers of culture. Perhaps that’s why I decided to create the QAYTA project — from Qazaq “қайта” (qayta) translates as “again, anew.” I would describe it as a design and memory studio. Right now, QAYTA creates sets with templates of Qazaq ornaments which can be reproduced and used to make something by hand.

Through QAYTA, I want my people to have the opportunity to touch felt, touch shi/chiy, try the practices of our ancestors. It’s a way to remember them and their/our knowledge inside our bodies. For me, remembering the worlds of our ancestors comes through making, through physical practice. This practice is healing for me, and I want to share it.

In Qazaq, there is a word “ara.” Ara means the distance between people and beings — relationships in both space and time. The word “aralas” translates to “mixed” — aralas,  eliminates distance. “Aralasu” is the verb, the action of bringing people closer. We have a saying: “Without aralasu, a relative becomes a stranger.” Over two hundred years of colonialism in Qazaqstan severed these spatial relationships, and much was lost. Aralasu — mixing with the worlds of our ancestors — became impossible. We collectively became distant from our ancestors through Soviet and colonial self-understanding.

 

“Despite all their simplicity and poverty...” – Samuil Dudin describes the carpets of Qazaq masters with this backhanded compliment. Akin to “not bad for the natives.” It pains me that for many years we had to understand ourselves through such a crooked mirror.

Rolando Vazquez says that decolonial practice is about healing and justice. His words allowed me to think about my artistic and research practice more freely. My practice is my path of healing. And here, there is no single right way — healing looks different for everyone. No one can tell me how fast to move or in which direction. This path is not necessarily linear. Today, I know I have answers to some questions, and tomorrow, I might not want to get out of bed.

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The image: Aziza Kadyri
Her stage, 2023

Aziza: In my work, I try to express not pain, but optimism, which is, nevertheless, connected to processing pain. As a person — and as an artist — it is nearly impossible to dive into a state of endless melancholy and sadness. I cannot just sit overwhelmed by this feeling and contemplate. I think through solutions. How do I exist within pain? If there are limitations, how do I overcome them? Yesterday, I was listening to an interview with my grandmother that I recorded for the installation Her Stage, which I am currently working on. She sometimes mentions negative things—and laughs after every sentence. Perhaps that laughter comes from a place of trauma. “He pressed me against the wall and started groping”, my grandmother says, listing the reasons why she couldn’t become a professional dancer — and then laughs. Reading my grandparents’ diaries, I see the same attitude toward problems and potential pain throughout my family. My great-great-grandfather voluntarily gave all his property to the Soviets and smiled as he instructed everyone to “study because no one can take knowledge away from you.” There is both fatalism and “clinical” tragic optimism in this, and this approach was passed to me subconsciously. That’s why I’m drawn to art that isn’t afraid of absurdism, magical realism, and performativity; it’s a clever defense mechanism.

 

Milyausha: In my family, there’s a story connected to zur aslyk — the famine in the Volga region in the 1920s, which is talked about less than the Holodomor in Ukraine and Asharshylyq in Qazaqstan, probably because Bashqortostan is a part of the Russian Federation. My great-grandmother Zeynab’s first husband took the most valuable thing to exchange it for food in a distant region, not as severely affected by the famine. The most valuable item was a carpet. He never returned home.

Everyone likely has stories in their families of their great-grandmothers surrendering their traditional treasures. Bashqorts first witnessed this during the tractor reform in the late 1920s when money was being raised for tractors. I found a video showing a woman in luxurious national attire, with chest jewellery and a headdress, approaching a table where two foremen in jackets are sitting. She takes off all her jewellery and hands it over. Everyone applauds. The same thing happened during World War II when jewellery was collected for the front's needs. Some masters still say they are afraid to show their treasures to anyone, such as when reenactors or ethnographers visit them. In my region, in the southwest of Bashqortostan, few people wear anything now. Some even say we never had national clothes or jewellery, although, in reality, all the treasures were given away for Soviet reforms. And this is also part of my history. When you tell it, and share it, it feels like this burden is being lifted.

Darali: When we discuss the problems of Indigenous peoples, I do not feel pain, but anger. It’s multilayered. It even feels like a disappointment, irritation mixed with indifference. If you want everything to be bad — don’t do anything, don’t speak your native language, don’t practice crafts, that’s your choice! What angers me is powerlessness, apathy, and inattention to what’s happening in culture right now, in contemporary art. To avoid losing energy, I try to communicate with different people — those outside of Udmurt culture — who might be going through similar processes. I try to do what I can, as much as I can.

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The image: Darali Leli wearing South Udmurt dress made by her grandmother Lydia, apron made by Darali Leli

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